Julie Lamb : BI Setting

It was about time for me to do a blog post on jewelry designer Julie Lamb who I love and have been sharing over and over on IG and jewelry round-ups. But here it finally goes… Julie recently shared on her social media about a photo of one of her BI setting rings (well this one is a tri-setting), a signature style which I love and wanted to share with you all. If you’re following me for a little while, you might know #iHaveThisThingWithProngs. So it’s no wonder I adore Julie’s BI-settings!
Besides her signature BI setting rings and earrings, she recently modified this tyle to add a third prong while working on a OOAK ring for the AGTA Spectrum Awards and that’s how the TRI setting is born! Every one of these pieces and as shown here is a one-of-a-kind creation and each is so precious in every way possible. I obviously had to ask Julie about those…and so I did! Julie made some of these pieces years ago before she had her very own line. So you see, jewelry does have a story and that’s what makes them so special, too!

“I would travel to events like Vegas JCK and the Tucson Gem Show to do trend reports for work and invariably come home with a loose stone or two! I am obsessed with one of a kind statement pieces. The rings were pretty much cocktail rings but they were clean and minimalist enough to throw on a cuff with and just wear them to work during the day. I worked for lots of big companies previously, I understand production. When I went to do my own line I couldn’t figure out how to make a look for myself with these one of a kinds, so many gem heavy designers out there, so much product development time for each, stone sourcing… I believed I could only win with an original design and I love writing copy and the marketing handles. My first collections Be Ewe, Metropolis, City are all concept heavy, with recognizable symbols and pointed taglines. When people see a lamb or a manhole they send me pictures- so I know it worked! ha!” – tells Julie.
It’s so true because there are things in the streets, shapes and etc which actually totally reminds me of Julie Lamb’s work. It’s so fun!

Smokey to lemon Quartz cocktail ring in a Bi-setting,
here seen worn with Tourmaline rings by KarenAsh and Julie’s Teardrop Glamour

Julie: “Anyway… I’ll post custom and one of a kind now and then. Ended up having to separate Be Ewe into its own IG account because its following (lots of knitters!) was so strong and unique (@BeEwebyJulieLamb). Once that was done I felt I could focus better on filling out, refining and upgrading my other collections. I use the AGTA Spectrum awards as an excuse to do one of my crazy big color stone projects.”
This year she entered 3 one-of-a-kind pieces: Aquamarine ring, Tourmaline Chain earrings with graduated lengths and the Angled Metropolis rose gold pinky ring (all pictured below). “Didn’t win but the pinky ring is off to L.A. for a celebrity shoot so, not so bad!” says Julie.
Heck yes, that’s awesome! Also, note her Lamb logo on the side. Love it!

The Aquamarine TRI setting ring includes two bezel-set diamonds and a bezel-set princess cut ruby in platinum, the bi-color Tourmaline earrings are quite a beautiful statement pair and features five chains and diamonds & the chunky Angled Metropolis ring is set with a stunning Mahenge pink garnet from Anza Gems and cut by Beth Stier, surrounded by diamonds.

Julie uses the same common elements everywhere – that ‘chubby bezel’ of hers, for example, is used as an accent in every collection and is truly a hit.
“I added Elements as a way to bridge my motif heavy collections with wearable everyday diamond styles. What I’m after are two things:
1). I never want to be bored as a designer, I gave myself lots of avenues to pursue. I want to be able to be inspired by something new and have a place for it to live.
2). I want to offer a full store experience, different collections for different customers, something for almost everybody, and it all can be worn together. Collections are made to mix and match, compliment each other.” she said and I couldn’t agree more with her on the mix an match!

Bi-color Ametrine ring in White Gold and Tourmaline earrings, all in Julie’s signature BI setting.

“I don’t chase trends. I did that for years in fashion jewelry- it’s tiring. I feel my pieces are in line with current trends but can’t get dumped in the fad category (sheep are not unicorns!!!). Again, the only way I can win is by design. I’m made in NY so labor is $$$, I don’t design into price points, my pieces are metal heavy, my diamond quality higher than most. These are my choices. The reason is because my name is on it. I believe in a niche, smaller more specific audiences. I am happy to grow slowly and organically- as long as steady growth continues and I can 100% control the brand.” – as explained by Julie, which I totally get. Having your name on your work is one thing, but having your customer to love YOUR work and its quality…that’s what matters.

Julie on her work evolution: “Showing that ‘Have Fun with Fine’ is the broad design parameter I chose to work with. How refining and adding to your collection year after year becomes more interesting and satisfying… something to that effect! I’ve been asked ‘What’s your David Yurman cable?’- the industry wants to sum you up with a single look. Not this girl! I am truly complicated and multi-layered and I’m SURE this comes out in my work, have fun with that.”



All info and imagery by Julie Lamb | Collages and edits by MoJ